Although many authorities advise that multiple layers of asphalt shingles can be acceptable there are definate reductions in longevity resulting, up to 50% of life can be lost by each subsequent thickness of shingles applied over another. This also reduces the possibilties of inspection / replacement of flashings and sheathing when not removing the worn out shingles.
Did you know also that when sheathing has to be replaced a building permit is required as this is a significant part of the buildings structure.
Warranties for shingle materials are for the large part worthless and not claimable and if claimable may only support replacement materials so therefore the specifically "failed" components only would be offered as replacement. However 50% of failed shingles can be attributed to inferior installation workmanship and design issues can be picked out as concerns on many others. Weaved covering of valleys can give reductions of life of approx 5 years so metal valleys will ensure maximised life and effective return for investment
Do NOT cut corners to save money if you are planning to live with this roof for the long haul this can be a significant investment and protect the homes structure for many many years to come. remember Moisture/water is the ENEMY.
Keep it out
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Chimneys
This part of your structure along with the roof is very often neglected as they are out of your normal field of vision. Chimneys should be cleaned regularly, plan your cleaning for the end of the season to prevent those contaminants and chemicals sitting in your chimney through teh summer absorbing the mositure from teh humid air through teh summer rather than before you plan to use the chimney in the fall, particularly if the fuel used is wood as the black deposits, soot and creosote, are a fire hazard if they build up in excess of 1/8" coating. This can also void your insurance if you have no documented proof of cleaning and a chimney fire develops. Ensure you have a rain cap on your chimney as moisture inside can create deterioration of the mortar and bricks themselves on masonry chimneys or rusting will result in steel chimneys. Pointing can repair minor deterioration but if mortar erodes more than 1/2" deep then replacing the bricks may be the expensive solution. Major failure, collapse, of the chimney may finally be the result if ignored long enough. WETT inspection is a neccessary process for wood burning fireplaces along with prior sweeping AH & P can assist in this manner also.
Tuesday, November 8, 2011
Winterise AC Unit
When preparing for the winter months, first of all turn off the breaker/ remove the fuse associated to the Air Conditioner in the home (assuming it is a dedicated circuit) If not then inspect the outside unit and if there is a breaker installed adjacent to it then turn that off. Secondly then place a cover over the top of the outside unit to prevent snow and ice entering the cavity of the box ( I personally use a garbage bin lid held down with elastic straps but a wooden board held down with a large stone works). DO NOT wrap in a plastic bag or tarp as this will retain moisture inside the assembly and promote corrosion.
In the early summer when you are considering using the unit again turn the breaker back on and remove the cover approx 24 hours before you plan to use it, clean or change the main system filter for optimum efficiency.
In the early summer when you are considering using the unit again turn the breaker back on and remove the cover approx 24 hours before you plan to use it, clean or change the main system filter for optimum efficiency.
Monday, November 7, 2011
Moisture
My latest piece of information relates to Moisture/Humidity in the home. First of all Homes built prior to the mid 1980's likely have a humidifier installed these should be on the return plenum of your furnace and the control should be installed in the living area NOT in the basement mechanical room, unless you spend a majority of your time in that area . Newer homes are more adequately sealed retaining their moisture so likely do not need that added moisture, rather more emphasis should be upon purging that moisture from the home to prevent Microbial Growth (Mould/Mildew)..........NOTE my reports never use the word "Mould" only a lab is capable of identifying mould to 100% certainty. Exhaust fans should be used to excess; bathroom and kitchen, if you have a Heatilator ( HRV) use this system regularly. Otherwise regularly opening windows/doors will do the deal also although this is not the common practice in modern life year round. A way of removing the moisture in your bathroom quickly after a shower is to turn on the cold faucet for a few minutes after you have stepped out of the shower, this will counteract the airborne heat as quickly if not quicker than opening the window especially if its already humid outside. Many people are not aware, but listed below is the amount of moisture released into the air on a regular basis in your home: First Year of Occupation in New Construction: approx 2500 litres as the interior dries. Daily living 4 person family: 10 litres per day 1 Cord of Wood Fuel for Wood Stove: 5 liters per day Exposed soil in Basement: 50 litres per day Airconditioner/Hi Efficiency Furnace up to 1/2 liter of condensate per hour
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