What Is A Home Inspection?

Buying a home could be the largest single investment you will ever make. To minimize unpleasant surprises and unexpected difficulties, you’ll want to learn as much as you can about the newly constructed or existing house before you buy it. A home inspection may identify the need for major repairs or builder oversights, as well as the need for maintenance to keep it in good shape. After the inspection, you will know more about the house, which will allow you to make decisions with confidence.

The inspection fee for a typical one-family house varies geographically, as does the cost of housing. Similarly, within a given area, the inspection fee may vary depending on a number of factors such as the size of the house, its age and possible optional services such as septic, well or radon testing.

Do not let cost be a factor in deciding whether or not to have a home inspection or in the selection of your home inspector. The sense of security and knowledge gained from an inspection is well worth the cost, and the lowest-priced inspection is not necessarily a bargain. Use the inspector’s qualifications, including experience, training, compliance with your state’s regulations, if any, and professional affiliations as a guide.

A home inspection is an overall, non-invasive analysis of the condition of a home at the time of inspection. This includes the different systems, such as the plumbing, roofing, exterior, structure, electrical, the interior, heating/cooling, insulation and ventilation. All of the mentioned components must work independently, while acting as a single system for a home to function properly.

The primary goal of a home inspector is to protect the buyer’s interests…to identify and report on the major deficiencies, unsafe or expensive problems that exist in the home. Once the inspection has been completed, the inspector communicates the findings through a written report. If possible, the clients should accompany the inspector during the inspection. This way, the buyer can ask questions while the inspector educates the client along the way. I always recommend that my clients come with me because they will leave with a better overall understanding of the home.

In Cambridge Ontario, not all home inspectors are required to be licensed, insured, educated in all housing systems, complete appropriate field training unless they belong to a professional association. In addition, to stay licensed, we are strictly required to continually update our education by attending relevant courses. The home inspection field is relatively new, when you compare it to other professions. It is continually evolving to keep relevant with the changing building requirements and the educated public. There is a lot of effort involved with this process, which makes the role of a home inspector challenging, yet rewarding.

It is an evaluation of the visible and accessible systems and components of a home (plumbing system, roof, etc.) and is intended to give the client (usually a homebuyer) a better understanding of their condition. It is also important to know what a home inspection is not! It is not an appraisal of the property’s value; nor should you expect it to address the cost of repairs. It does not guarantee that the home complies with local building codes (which are subject to periodic change) or protect you in the event an item inspected fails in the future. Nor should it be considered a “technically exhaustive” evaluation, but rather an evaluation of the property on the day it is inspected, taking into consideration normal wear and tear. 

Aside from the time invested, the value of the inspection and report can be measured by its usefulness. If the inspection turns up little wrong with the house, you've bought some relatively inexpensive peace of mind. If the inspection finds serious problems, your Home Inspection Fee could end up saving you many thousands of dollars.

If you hire the right home inspector you will hire a professional that provides an objective, visual examination of the homes condition. As a home buyer you should view the home inspection as a way to gain valuable information about the biggest purchase of your lifetime. It helps you to determine if there are any major defects or needed repairs at the time of purchase. It is also an educational experience.

Often home inspections are performed after a sales contract is signed. The contract may be conditional upon the results of the home inspection, and if major concerns are found you may have the option of canceling the contract. The inspection should be arranged as soon as possible after signing the contract. More and more often sellers are having their homes inspected prior to placing them on the market so that repairs can be made before hand, making the home more marketable.

Home inspectors not only look for needed improvements they also highlight the positive aspects of the home. I encourage the home buyer to attend the inspection, so that you can see firsthand the workings of the home. It is also an excellent opportunity to ask questions about the home and to discuss potential changes.

Optional Inspections (since these are not found in every home, they are not normally priced into the above inspection fess please inform your inspector if you want these inspected as well so that he or she can supply proper pricing. Your inspector may refer you to company specializing in these inspections.

The definition of codes is the minimum building practices allowed to make a structure safe, sound, and sanitary. To the extent that is allowed, obviously our standards and inspections are based on accepted practices. But a home inspection covering complete adherence to code is not possible due to the nature of the constraints of this inspection. Much of the structure is covered disallowing visual inspection. The inspection is non-invasive because the property may not be owned by the inspector nor by the client. 

In essence, a Home Inspection is a snapshot of a house on the day of the inspection. It is a non-invasive, visual evaluation of the property's basic structure, the structure's foundation or basement, interior, exterior, roof, electrical, plumbing and heating and cooling systems. The purpose of an inspection is to detect major visible problems or defects and unsafe conditions.

A Home Inspection may be used to provide information for various purposes. There are pre-purchase inspections, new home construction and one-year walk-through inspections, pre-listing inspections and inspections for the purpose of litigation in construction defect cases.

Most often, a home inspection is used to assist a client in making a more informed purchasing decision. The inspector may also educate the buyer as to typical life expectancies, items to budget for replacement as well as how to take care of and maintain the property.

As a consumer and home buyer you have the right to know exactly what a typical real estate (home) inspection is. The information presented here is intended give you a better understanding of exactly what your Home Inspector will and will not do for you during the course of an inspection.

The goal of a home inspection is to give the client a much better understanding of the physical condition of the structure than would otherwise be known. To achieve this an inspector conducts a visual inspection of the home and its systems.

Typical homes take 3 - 4 hours to inspect. When the client arrives the inspector often presents a pre-inspection agreement to be signed followed by payment. A good inspector then gives the client an overview of the inspection process and invites the client to accompany him.

Upon completion of the inspection the inspector should give the client a summary of what was discovered and an opportunity to ask questions. The client then receives a signed written report of the findings. The report is the client's property; no other party is entitled to see it.

A home inspection is a thorough, in-depth visual examination of the structure and operating components of a home. It is recommended for buyers and sellers, or anyone planning to buy a new or older home.

A trained inspector will point out areas of concern during the inspection as well as educate you, the buyer, as to proper care and maintenance procedures. This information will assist you in making an unemotional, intelligent, and informed purchase decision. A professional home inspection will also provide you with a feeling of security and peace of mind regarding one of the largest investments of a lifetime.

AH & P highly recommends the buyers be present at the inspection. If it is not possible to attend the inspection, we will follow up the report with a telephone call to review our findings with you.

A home inspection is a visual inspection of the structure and components of a home to find items that are not performing correctly or items that are unsafe. If a problem or a symptom of a problem is found the home inspector will include a description of the problem in a written report and may recommend further evaluation.

Home Buyers: Emotion often affects the buyer and makes it hard to imagine any problems with their new home. A buyer needs a home inspection to find out all the problems possible with the home before moving in.

Home Sellers: More and more sellers are choosing to have a thorough inspection before or when they first list their home. First and foremost, you should have a home inspection for full disclosure. You will have demonstrated that you did all you could do to reveal any defects within the home. Second, you will save money and hassle by knowing now what your defects are, not after you have already negotiated a price and are faced with costly repairs discovered on the buyers inspection. Defects found before the buyer comes along allow you to shop around for a contractor and not deal with inflated estimates that a buyer will present.

A home inspection is a thorough visual examination of the structure, systems and components of a home by experienced, objective professional home inspectors. Homebuyers now entering the marketplace view home inspections as a way to gain valuable information about the biggest purchase of their lifetime. It helps them to determine whether there are any major defects or system inadequacies at the time of purchase and will educate them about the construction, operation and maintenance of the home.

In most cases, home inspections are performed after the seller has accepted a sales contract, conditional upon a satisfactory home inspection. The home inspection can usually be scheduled within a couple of days. The homebuyer is encouraged to attend the home inspection and follow the home inspector, so that he/she can see firsthand the workings of the home, ask questions about any problems or defects that may be discovered or to discuss potential desired changes or improvements.

The home inspector’s service to the purchaser is primarily one of education. The goal of home inspectors is to provide the purchaser with a better understanding of the physical condition of the home and what repairs or improvements may be needed. In many cases the information obtained from the inspection can save the homebuyer hundreds or thousands of dollars. After the inspection is completed, a written report is prepared for the homebuyer, documenting the results of the inspection.

Home Buyers entering the marketplace view inspections as a way to gain valuable information about the biggest purchases of the lifetime. We recommend the client attend the inspection. Home inspections are not intended to point out every small problem or any non-visible defects in a home. Most minor or cosmetic flaws should be apparent without the aid of a professional. Home inspections highlight the positive aspects of a home. In fact, many of the home inspectors observations or recommendations help to dispel buyer anxieties, and provide useful repair and maintenance suggestions.

Design complexity plays a role in roof failures. The more penetrations, valleys, changes in directions increases the probability for premature failure or leaks. Stepper roofs last longer because water runs off quicker and does not back up during high winds. Resurfacing a roof costs thousands of dollars, and will cost more if the existing roofing needs to be removed prior to re-roofing.

Having a home inspected is similar to getting a physical checkup. If a problem or symptom is discovered, the inspector may recommend further evaluation. The inspection will take approximately three hours to complete, depending on the size and age of the home.

In layman’s terms, having a home inspected is similar to giving it a physical check-up. If problems or symptoms are found, the inspector may recommend further evaluation.

As a home buyer/seller or real estate professional, you have a right to know exactly what a typical real estate inspection is. The following information should give you a better understanding of exactly what your inspector should (and should not) do for you during the course of a home inspection.

First and foremost, an inspection is a visual survey of those easily accessible areas that an inspector can clearly see. No destructive testing or dismantling is done during the course of an inspection, hence an inspector can only tell a client exactly what was clearly in evidence at the time and date of the inspection. The inspectors eyes are not any better than the buyers, except that the inspector is trained to look for specific tell-tale signs and clues that may lead to the discovery of actual or potential defects or deficiencies.

Buying a home is one of the most emotional and stressful times in your life. During times like these, it's easy to look at situations differently than you ordinarily would. A home inspector won't be swayed by emotions while determining the condition of the house. Having a professional and impartial inspection of a home not only provides you with important facts about the condition of the home, it also takes away some of the stress associated with the decisions you've made and need to make.

While most houses have at least minor defects, homes are built by human beings and the only ones that don't make errors are those that don't do anything so keep in mind all problems have a solution. If there is something wrong with any of the major systems of the home or if any of them are out of date or near the end of their useful life, it may or may not be expensive to correct. This doesn't mean you should or should not buy the house. By having a home inspected, you gain the benefit of reviewing a full inspection report which affords you the opportunity to discuss any potential or existing problems with your realtor and lawyer. They can advise you on the best course of action, if any is needed.

A home inspection by a professional is a comprehensive visual and structural inspection, both inside and out, from foundation to rooftop. You get a detailed report of the house structure, systems and condition. A professional opinion from someone you trust... how much is it worth when you are buying your home?

Home inspectors are generalists with broad knowledge on many topics. The home inspector does a visual inspection and reports the major deficiencies and items affecting the habitability of the property. A good inspector must be well versed in all fields of residential construction and have good communication skills. The home inspector gives an overview of the condition of the property and discloses major defects.

Almost every home inspector will provide you with a written report that explains the condition of the four major systems of the home. These systems are Plumbing, Electrical, Heating and Air Conditioning, and Structural. Most, if not all, real estate contracts limit the buyer to repair requests in these systems only. Because of this, some inspectors will only inspect these areas.

Keep in mind that all used homes have deferred maintenance. If the home inspector fails to point out these areas, are you getting your money's worth? Deferred maintenance areas may start out small and minor, but left unattended can be very costly in the end. A concerned home inspector will not only make you aware of these areas, but will provide a repair recommendation as well. The report should provide you with a clear understanding between a major system issue and a deferred maintenance issue.

Any problems a home inspector finds during the assessment is then documented and suggested courses of action are given to the homeowner. The home inspection takes place after a buyer has made an offer on a home and the seller has accepted.

Buying a home is one of the most important purchases you will make. It is important to make sure you are making a well-informed purchase and a home inspection can help you do this. This one step can potentially save you thousands of dollars in unknown problems that could have been dealt with at the point of sale and cost the previous homeowner rather than yourself.

Home inspectors look carefully at the roof, foundation, windows and doors for any sign of water entry and for existing water damage. We also predict conditions such as grading towards the house or other emerging wear that could allow water in the future, noting that suggestions are then made for immediate and future repair considerations and preventative measures.

Most houses cannot be inspected in less than two hours. Depending upon the age, condition and size of the house, the inspection can take longer.

The inspection should be documented by a full written report, discussing noteworthy observations. IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE INSPECTOR'S OBSERVATIONS BE PUT IN PERSPECTIVE BY CLEARLY WRITTEN RECOMMENDATIONS, in my opinion presented at the end of the inspection, not a day or so later sent electronically as instant information and knowledge is vital in the real estate process.

No house is perfect. The professional Home Inspector can help you distinguish between minor imperfections and major concerns. Many homes also have components that are significantly better than average, these are worthy of mention.

A home inspection, sometimes called a property inspection or building inspection, is a thorough visual examination of a home that is performed by a Certified Professional Inspector at a specific point in time. The inspection is non-invasive, performed for a fee, and is designed to identify material defects within specific components of a home or property. These components may include any combination of mechanical, structural, electrical, plumbing, or other essential systems or portions of the home, as identified and agreed to by the Client and Inspector, prior to the inspection process.

Homes may be inspected for a variety of reasons but in many cases a home is inspected before a home is sold to reveal any defects that may be problematic for the buyer. A typical home inspection will include a complete walk-through of the house in which the condition of the home is closely examined, any deficiencies or defects are noted, and recommendations for repairs are made. The home inspection is intended to assist in the evaluation of the overall condition of the home, at the time of the inspection, and is not a prediction of future conditions.

A typical home inspection will take between 2 and 3 hours to complete. During this time the home will be thoroughly examined from the exterior to the interior. A home inspection should include observations and, when acceptable, operation of the mechanical, electrical, plumbing, and appliance systems.

In addition a good home inspection should document the condition of structural components, roofing, foundation, exterior and interior walls, doors, windows, and chimneys. After completion of the home inspection a comprehensive inspection report should be provided that documents the condition of the home and indicates existing material defects or problems that were visually observed by the home inspector.

A comprehensive home inspection is very important when purchasing a home. Buying a home is one the largest investments that many people make, but very few home buyers are experienced in building construction, and overlooking a serious material defect could be very costly down the road. Because of this, many buyers elect to have the home inspected prior to closing the sale. This will document any defects that may be discussed with the seller during negotiations.

A home inspection is a comprehensive visual examination of the physical structure and systems of a home, from foundation to roof, as provided by an objective third party. The home inspector will provide you with a report detailing any components that are not performing properly and items that are unsafe. Areas that may need further evaluation or repairs will also be noted by the home inspector. This report will give you the knowledge to make an informed decision, and ensure that you are getting a good value for your investment.

When buying a home, most people find it difficult to remain objective about the house they really want. To obtain the most accurate information about a home's condition, you should get an impartial, third-party, home inspection expert. Hiring a professional home inspector can actually SAVE you money: I usually reveal repairs, maintenance or otherwise, that far exceed the cost of the home inspection. These repairs may be done by the current owner, or, may be negotiated off the asking price. The end result is that the home inspection saves you money, rather than costing you money.

When selling a home, it is a good idea to have a home inspection conducted before waiting for a buyer's home inspector to uncover hidden problems. This will give you the time to decide whether it makes more sense to have any necessary repairs completed yourself or disclose them to potential home buyers prior to the negotiation process. You'll have a more buyer-friendly home and may even sell your house sooner!

If you are planning to buy a house, you should know that no house is perfect, even a brand-new one. This doesn't mean that you won't find the house of your dreams. It does mean that when you find a house that's just what you want, you should go one step further and find out its problems or potential problems, if any, and get your home inspected by a certified home inspector. Problems can be the result of deficiencies in construction, deterioration due to aging, or safety and fire hazards. Very often the problems are quite minor and can be corrected at little or no cost. However, sometimes there are major problems that are quite costly to correct.

Usually when people decide to buy a home, the decision is based on a superficial inspection of the house. They tend to make an emotional decision which might be correct; however, it should be based on an understanding of the true condition of the house and not on its cosmetic condition.

A trained inspector will point out areas of concern during the inspection, as well as educate you, the buyer, as to proper care and maintenance procedures. This information will assist you in making an unemotional, intelligent, and informed purchase decision. 

Homebuyers view inspections as a way to gain valuable information about one of the biggest purchases of their lifetime. It helps them to determine whether there are any major defects or system inadequacies at the time of the inspection.

In most cases, the home inspection is performed after the seller has accepted a sales contract, conditional upon a satisfactory home inspection. The inspection can usually be arranged immediately or within a few days. The homebuyer is encouraged to attend the inspection, so that he/she can see firsthand the workings of the home. It also represents an excellent opportunity for the prospective buyer to ask questions about the home or to discuss potential changes.

Home inspections should also highlight the positive aspects of a home. In fact, many of the home inspector's observations or recommendations help to dispel home purchaser anxieties, and provide useful repair and maintenance suggestions.

In its simplest terms, a home inspection is a visual analysis of the major systems of a house. These include the Roofing, Exterior, Structure, Electrical, Heating, Cooling, Insulation, Plumbing and the Interior.

Even brand new homes have flaws. But that doesn't mean you should give up the search for your dream home. It does mean that when you find the right house, you need to go one step further and find out what problems are present and what the implications are. Buying a house is one of the biggest investments most people will ever make, so it makes good sense to have it checked out by a professional. That is when you should call on the services of AH & P.

The unknown can be a source of anxiety for any home buyer. A home inspection is for buyers who want to know the true condition of the house. After deciding that a home is suitable in terms of location, size, interior layout and other lifestyle factors, it is also important to learn about the mechanical features.

The home buying process can be confusing and stressful. Not only do you need to consider things such as price and location, you also have to worry about whether the house itself has any problems that could become costly surprises down the road.

The home inspection should be an unbiased, professional assessment of the condition of the house. It provides you an expert opinion and professional report on the condition of the physical structure and various systems within a house. It gives you peace of mind on what is likely the largest purchase you will ever make.

In order to prepare the report, an inspector must conduct a visual inspection of the house. The inspection process typically takes about three hours to complete. This may vary, according to the size and condition of the home. We strongly encourage you to accompany the inspector during the inspection. This will give you a chance to ask questions and become familiar with the systems of the home.

A home inspection is an objective, visual examination of a home’s structure, systems and mechanical systems. Think of it like having a personal physical check-up that includes blood pressure, reflexes, temperature, etc., only on the home.

Of course you can inspect the home yourself. However, most homeowners lack the knowledge and expertise of a professional home inspector. Professional home inspectors are familiar with the many elements of home construction, their proper installation and maintenance and will document their findings to you in writing.

A Home Inspection is a visual examination of a home and its essential components. The key word is visual. A "snapshot" of the building and its components, on the day of inspection. The reason it is visual is because the inspector is a guest in the owner/sellers home. He/she is never permitted to "punch holes" in walls to see if there is adequate insulation, electrical wiring conditions, check for mold etc. That being said, a Certified Home Inspector is trained to look for and interpret real conditions of the home and recognize any existing or potential issues related to health and safety and/or structural defects of the home. Having a Home Inspector could easily save you thousands of dollars.

There are many possible defects that are not easily recognizable. Some defects can ultimately cost a fortune. Other issues may be minor but if not properly addressed could easily become major. A Home Inspector will not only recognize these issues but offer solutions that can save you a lot of money and stress.

Being present during a Home Inspection allows you to see and immediately question any issues that the inspector may find. Remember, this is going to be your future home. Your home inspection could represent the best time to learn an incredible amount of information about your home and future in it. Don't be afraid to ask lots of questions, the home inspector works for you and wants to share his/her knowledge with you on important issues like home safety and proper home maintenance practices.

Many buyers arrive at their Home Inspection unprepared. They are not aware of what all is involved in an Inspection, so they are not able to adequately prepare for it. Due to this, sometimes a buyer will have questions or concerns arise about the home. Often days after the inspection was performed. Many times these questions could have been answered by the Inspector, had it been brought to his attention.

A Home Inspection is a visual inspection of a structure, made by a qualified professional, who is trained and has experience in evaluating all the component features in a house, and who is able to give a clear and accurate picture of the condition of these components. It is important to remember that a Home Inspection is basically visual in nature, with no intrusive drilling or digging performed. When you and your Home Inspector have completed the Inspection, the house must be in the same (or better) condition than it was when you first began.

A Home Inspection should have a distinct two-prong focus. First, the primary goal is to clearly identify any potential significant defect that will affect your buying decision, and give you a realistic approximation of repair costs. Second, is to clearly identify any areas in need of near term repairs, or any components that are reaching the end of their useful life span. Even though it is secondary, this area provides very useful information that you will need when setting up your maintenance budget.

Buying a home could be the largest single investment you will ever make. To minimize unpleasant surprises and unexpected difficulties, you'll want to learn as much as you can about the newly constructed or existing house before you buy it. A home inspection may identify the need for major repairs or builder oversights, as well as the need for maintenance to keep it in good shape.

After the inspection, you will know more about the house, which will allow you to make decisions with confidence. If you already are a homeowner, a home inspection can identify problems in the making and suggest preventive measures that might help you avoid costly future repairs. If you are planning to sell your home, a home inspection can give you the opportunity to make repairs that will put the house in better selling condition.

 

A professional home inspection is an examination of the current condition of a house. It is not an appraisal, which determines market value. It is not a municipal inspection, which verifies local code compliance. A home inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a house, but rather describe its physical condition and indicate what components and systems may need major repair or replacement

What Are You Looking for In a Home Inspection?

For most of us, purchasing a home is the biggest investment we will ever make. The process of purchasing a home is both rewarding and often times stressful. Dealing with contract negotiations, mortgage loans, and mountains of paperwork can be quite overwhelming. The last thing a home buyer needs to worry about is an unforeseen problem with his or her investment. This is why taking the time and investing in a professional home inspection is so important.

Every home has its secrets. A thorough home inspection will not only reveal these secrets, but provide the home buyer with a degree of confidence in the purchase. In addition to the home appraisal, required by most mortgage lenders, the home inspection will help justify the selling price of the home and, in fact, can be a large factor in negotiations.

Unlike a home appraisal, which only provides a cursory market value for the property, a home inspection offers a detailed analysis of the home’s condition. These inspections, when performed by professional contractors, should include an analysis of the home’s major mechanical systems such as furnace and air conditioning systems, plumbing and electrical components, as well as an overall analysis of the roof.

I continue to receive complaints from readers about problems that they discover after closing their home purchase. Most complain about sellers who fail to disclose defects or home inspectors who fail to find them. The system is far from perfect. However, there are steps that buyers can take before and during a home inspection to protect their interests.

Look under any area rug or bed and behind any picture to check for cracked tiles, stained carpets or walls. Lift anything on the kitchen counters to look for defects. Do any of the appliances show any rust? How old are they? If they are discontinued models, you will likely have to replace them if they break down because of the difficulty of finding replacement parts.

You could spend lots of money fixing moisture-damaged areas, so it's essential an inspector finds all sources of water trouble. Make sure your inspector uses proper moisture-detection devices such as hand-held meters and infrared cameras. A competent inspector will also report on poorly sloped yards, old water stains and even musty smells.

It takes time to do a thorough, comprehensive home inspection. You should have serious reservations about hiring any inspector who says the job will only take two or three hours.

Some inspectors will only cover one door or window in a room. Insist that your inspector look at all doors and windows. Also, find out if the home's heating and cooling systems are functional and adequate.

But first, allow me to congratulate you on your new home purchase. Buying a home is often the largest purchase a person will make in their entire lifetime. It's a very exciting time and I would imagine that you are very anxious to finish the process and get moved into your new home and on with your life.

Your life has probably been pretty crazy lately with all the house hunting, paperwork, dealing with the banks, mortgage companies and the real estate people. It's enough to make you start pulling your hair out. It can be downright stressful.

As a home inspector I work with home buyers all the time. I understand what you've been through to find and get the right home for you. But I have to ask you this important question - With all the effort you've been through to get your home, don't you want to be sure that the home you're buying is safe, sound, and secure for you and your family?

Purchasing a new home is a large investment. Not only will you pay for the home, but also for the furniture, appliances, clothes, and food that you will need to live in it for the rest of your life. Thus, the last thing you need is a home with significant damages that you will have to cover in out-of-pocket expenses. The following factors to look for in a home inspection will help you know what a home inspector does and will help you check these same areas from year to year in your own home.

First, the home inspector will check the home structure. The structure includes both the frame and foundation of a home. Inspectors will look at the structure to see if there are cracks, holes, water damage, or looseness. If the foundation of a home is in dire straits, it would mean life or death to inhabit the home.

Next, the home inspector will check the outside home environment. Porches, windows, doors, decks, patios, and driveways are the common elements to check. If there are holes in the windows, or an opening in the windows that allows air and other elements to seep in, it would be best to refrain from buying the home.

How often have buyers been left holding the short stick when it comes to problems with a house? Who’s to blame?; you, the agent, the seller, or the attorney? Ultimately, it’s you for paying attention to the agent or worst the actual homeowner. Never, never buy a home without having a professional inspect it first. It’s perhaps the best money you’ll ever spend even if you don’t buy the home. Here are a few items I would look for if I was buying a home for myself.

Long horizontal cracks in the foundation. Cracks are normal, but horizontal/vertical cracks may be a form of movement by the house. They’re caused be settling or movement of the house. It’s bound to happen… homes are heavy.

White wrapping around the pipes in the basement. Look for the wrapping that looks like an old cast used when you break bone on your arm or leg. This is typically asbestos. Asbestos was used during the 60′s as a fire retardant. This thing won’t catch on fire no matter what, but it can be hazardous to your health. When in doubt, have it tested. Most home inspectors can determine what it is without having to touch it.

Just another example of why you should get a home inspection prior to spending your hard earned money on your dream home. As you can see by the picture, a shoddy repair job would have given a few clues something wasn’t right. As a buyer of a house, what would you have done next?

Part of my passion as a Hespeler area home inspector is to get to the bottom of little things that others wouldn’t think to observe. My first move was to look at different areas located around this particular area, ie, laundry room, bathroom, etc. When looking in a very small linen closet next to this room I came across another ceiling issue the present homeowner failed to look at or hide and the next pic shows what I had found.

As you can see, we got a little growth going on. Although the growth hasn’t been tested for mold yet, we can come to our own conclusions. So we know this is a moisture problem and the next step is to isolate where the moisture was coming from. Above the area in the attic, there was only the vent pipe for the dryer coming up through the ceiling and going up and discharging through the roof. As you can see by the next picture, someone definitely had come and repaired a previous leak from the dryer vent that penetrated through the roof.

Home inspections are now considered so routine that an estimated 77 percent of all home buyers invest in one. Buying a home is one of the most important decisions you will ever make. Like any investment, you will want to know as much information about your purchase as possible. A comprehensive, professional home inspection is designed to help you with that effort.

A home inspection is not a to-do list for the seller. Over the past quarter-century two of the most common questions asked of home inspectors are "Who should make the repairs?" and "Should I buy this house?" The role of the home inspector is to provide the buyer with their opinion of the home's condition at the time of inspection. Because each real estate sales contract and transaction is different, a buyer's real estate sales professional or lawyer is better qualified to answer these type of questions. A home inspection is not a pass/fail test. "It is up to the buyer to determine whether or not the home passes his own test. A couple looking to totally renovate a home may realize that the need for lots of repairs to the mechanical systems doesn't matter to them. Conversely, a young couple buying a 'starter home' in which they plan to live only a few years may find a home with many problems is just not for them." It does not make a home purchase risk-free. Most home inspection companies utilize an inspection contract that outlines the specifics of the home inspection, as well as its limitations. But it's important to remember that while a home inspection is designed to reduce the risk in buying a home, it cannot eliminate that risk.

Choose wisely when it comes to selecting a home inspector. Even in areas where there is mandatory licensing, credentials among inspectors can vary dramatically. Price should not be the reason to select a home inspector. Make sure that your home inspector carries insurance and is up to date with their ongoing training programs from the National Institute of Building Inspectors. It is also important to make sure that an inspector provides a written inspection report that includes pertinent details on the condition of major elements of the home. Look for a home inspector that encourages you to go along on the inspection. The inspection is a terrific introduction to a home. A professional inspector can answer questions, demonstrate how to operate various systems in the home, and provide helpful maintenance suggestions. Heed the inspector's advice. Deficiencies found on an inspection will continue to deteriorate through usage and age. Plan on addressing any outstanding concerns as soon as possible. A professional home inspection is the best investment a home buyer can make.

Imagine a hands-on career that will have you climbing over, under and through houses searching for any defects that could cause problems for the owner or prospective owner. Professionals in the home inspection field physically inspect the entire home or building and complete a detailed report on the condition of all components, mechanical systems and the overall structure. The report is then used as a tool for making important decisions regarding the purchase of the home or building or factors such as its insurability.

Home owners and home buyers rely on the home inspector to advise them on their biggest investment. Therefore, the home inspector must be knowledgeable in how to inspect a home’s major components and systems and what problems to look for. Being able to report on the condition of the home in a clear, concise manner is also important.

A home and commercial property inspection is important if you are addressing real estate. Many say that home and commercial property inspection might be one of the most crucial elements which may decide over your success in buying or selling. This text will talk over some of the numerous reasons you should have your home and commercial properties looked over prior to deciding to buy the property.

You will find vast variances between acquiring commercial and residential properties, however when it comes to having those properties inspected, the reasons for the actual examinations tend to be similar. The primary reason you have to have home and commercial property inspections is always to safeguard yourself. People who perform property inspections are usually highly skilled to find things that nearly all buyers wouldn’t normally think to look for in real estate. They are also trained to know the laws and building codes with regard to their region. This can be useful to the purchaser.

 

Whenever an inspector is performing a property inspection they will look at the building along with the property as a whole. They’ll examine the foundation, the roofing, the electrical system, the cooling and heating system, and they’re going to check for signs and symptoms of bug or some other problems. They’ll then record their findings to you together with suggestions in regards to what you should ask the seller to repair before you purchase the property. They might even recommend that you not buy the property based on their inspection. This may prevent you from getting a property that’s going to be a waste of money

Picking A New Furnace?

AFUE means Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. To evaluate the energy use of furnaces / boilers, it provides a % measure of the energy used for heating versus energy wasted. AFUE ratings are displayed on all recent furnaces as per Federal Trade Commission requirements.
When shopping for furnaces / boilers, a higher rating means higher efficiency. Example, a rating of 80 percent means the furnace uses 80 percent of its energy to produce heat and the other 20 percent is lost. Note that the rating doesn’t include heat loss through the duct system or piping, which can be up to 35 percent of the heat being used, especially if ducts are in the attic.
Electric furnaces and boilers are the most energy efficient, with a rating of between 95 and 100 percent, partly because they have no energy loss through a chimney / flue. Despite these units’ efficiency, the cost of electricity per BTU (heating unit) may make the overall savings negligible.
The minimum allowed AFUE rating was established by the Federal Trade Commission. The rating for non-condensing fossil fueled furnaces can’t be below 78 percent, whereas a fossil-fueled boiler’s minimum rating is 80 percent. A steam boiler that’s gas fueled must be rated no lower than 75.
Even with these stringent requirements, older and less efficient furnaces still exist and may be rated as low as 55.
For the purpose of energy conservation and heating costs, knowing the AFUE of a furnace is important in effectively determining which brand or type of heating system will best suit your needs. These ratings are useful in evaluating the cost of a furnace relative to how much money it will save you in the long run

Tired of Weeding????

Zap Them With Salt:Salt will kill many weeds that can't be pulled up from the roots. Use a garden fork to scrape the soil away from the base of the weed and then cut the stem as close to the ground as possible. Pour salt onto the wound, trying your best not to spill any into the soil.

Drive Them from Cracks with Vinegar and Salt:

If weeds or grass sprout from cracks in your driveway, sidewalk, or any other outdoor paved surface, squirt them with a vinegar and salt solution. To make it, combine 2 cups vinegar, ¼ cup salt, and 2 drops liquid dish detergent in a jar, screw the cap on tightly, and shake well. A simpler alternative is pouring boiling salted water into the cracks. When applying either weed killer, make sure no runoff reaches your garden plants.

Make Your Own Weed Killer:Chemical-laden weed killers do the job, all right, but so do greener alternatives that are easy to make at home. Whatever your views of conventional vs. organic gardening, it's always wise to try weed killers with low toxicity before using harsher poisons. The acetic acid in vinegar kills the leaves of a weed, not the root — but if you apply this spray often enough it will deplete the weed's stored energy reserves and kill off the intruder.

- 2 cups water

- 1½ cups vinegar (white or cider)

- ½ cup dishwashing liquid

Using a funnel, pour all of the ingredients into a 1-litre spray bottle and shake well to mix. Spray the solution directly on weeds, taking care not to spray any surrounding grass or desirable plant

Mix a Poison Ivy Weed Killer

Poison ivy is one weed you don't want to mess around with. Kill it with a spray of vodka and water. Combine 2 tablespoons vodka with 2 cups water and pour the solution into a spray bottle. Vodka's dehydrating action will kill poison ivy soon after the leaves are saturated.

Newspaper and Plastic Smotherers:

If part of your garden seems a little too weed-friendly, try one of these mulches to keep undesirable plants from sprouting.

Newspapers: Wet several sheets of newspaper so that they cling together, and then set the mat over a

patch of weeds. Camouflage the mat by topping it with wood chips or other mulch. Remove it once the

weeds are kaput

Trash bags: Split the seams of black plastic trash bags to double their size and use them to blanket the

problem spot. Spiff the plastic up with wood chips or such and leave it in place 10-14 days

— by which time the weeds should be dead and gone.

Vermiculite - Issue or Not

If you have never seen vermiculite insulating an attic, you may have seen it in potting soil. Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral worldwide. When heated rapidly to high temperatures, this crystalline mineral expands into low density, accordion-like, golden brown strands. In fact, its worm-like shape is what gives vermiculite its name. The worms are broken into rectangular chunks about the size of the eraser on the end of a pencil. In addition to being light, vermiculite chunks are also absorbent and fire retardant. These characteristics make it great as an additive, for example to potting soil. It also makes a good insulating material.

Where Was It Used?
Sold under various brand names, such as Zonolite Attic Insulation, the insulation came in big bags. Thousands of homeowners simply opened the bags and poured the vermiculite onto their attic floor and sometimes down exterior walls. It was generally not used in new construction.
When Was It Used?
Worldwide, vermiculite has been used in various industries as long ago as 1920. With the upsurge in home ownership during the baby boom, vermiculite insulation was a popular material in the 1950’s, and continued with the energy crisis into the late 1970’s. In Canada, it was one of the insulating materials allowed under the Canadian Home Insulation Program from about 1976 to the mid-1980’s. The CHIP program provided grants to homeowners to increase insulation levels, reducing energy consumption.
What Is The Problem?
The majority of the vermiculite used worldwide was from a mine in Libby, Montana, owned and operated since 1963 by W.R. Grace. The mine was closed in 1990. As well as being rich in vermiculite, this mine had the misfortune of having a deposit of tremolite, a type of asbestos. When the vermiculite was extracted, some tremolite came in with the mix.
For Canadian use, the raw product from the Libby mine was shipped to Grace subsidiary F. Hyde processing plants in Montreal, St. Thomas, Ajax and Toronto, and Grant Industries in western Canada. At these plants, it was processed and sold as Zonolite.
What Is The Risk?
Asbestos minerals tend to separate into microscopic particles that become airborne and are easily inhaled. People exposed to asbestos in the workplace have developed several types of life-threatening diseases, including lung cancer. Workers in and around the Libby mine developed serious health problems. Like any hazards, length and intensity of exposure are major factors in the risk of asbestos-related respiratory illness. To assess the risk of asbestos exposure at a house, a sample of the vermiculite would need to be analyzed by a lab. Since most of the vermiculite used in Canada was taken from the Libby mine, the odds are quite good that there is asbestos in the vermiculite in Canadian attics.
The good news is that we don’t live in our attics. In addition, as long as it is undisturbed, neither the asbestos fibers bound up in the vermiculite chunks nor the dust will be released into the air. According to the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health in the U.S., “Most people who get asbestos-related diseases have been exposed to high levels of asbestos for a long time.” Lastly, most of the time the air in your house flows from the house into the attic, rather than into the house from the attic.
The bottom line is, like most household products that may contain asbestos, and there are many, doing nothing is often the best approach. Naturally, the risk of exposure increases with the amount of time spent in the attic.
Recommendations
If the attic or walls of a house contain vermiculite insulation, leave it alone. Avoid disturbing the material. Do not sweep it or vacuum it up. Do not store belongings in the attic.
If work is planned that involves these areas, for example installing potlights in a room below the attic, send a sample of the vermiculite to a private lab. Send several samples, and use a lab specializing in asbestos analysis. If it is found to contain asbestos, or if you just assume it does, precautions should be taken. The safest approach would be to have the insulation in the affected areas removed by a qualified environmental contractor.
For smaller jobs it may be sufficient to isolate work areas with temporary barriers or enclosures to avoid spreading fibers, use disposable protective clothing, and use proper respiratory protection. An important note – disposable respirators or dust masks are not appropriate for asbestos. Again, it is best to consult a qualified contractor.

Truss Uplift

Truss uplift has nothing to do with plastic surgery or under-garments. It is a phenomenon common in homes built with roof trusses as opposed to rafters. If a house suffers from truss uplift, the top floor ceilings literally lift off the interior walls in the winter. They drop back down in the summer. Needless to say, this is a tad disconcerting to the homeowner. At first glance, one might assume that the floors have settled. Actually the ceiling has gone up - sometimes creating a gap of as much as two inches where interior walls meet the ceilings.
What is a Truss?
Trusses are prefabricated structural assemblies which hold up the roof and the top floor ceilings. Trusses tend to be a stronger lighter and less expensive approach to roof framing.
Trusses are strong because they make use of the most efficient geometric shape we know of - the triangle. Trusses are a series of triangles fastened together with gusset plates. The outside members of a truss are called chords while the inner pieces are known as webs.

Why Truss Uplift?

Houses have changed over the years. Attics of newer houses have lots of insulation and ventilation. They also have roof trusses instead of rafters and ceiling joists.

The bottom chord of a truss is buried below a deep blanket of insulation. Even on the coldest days the bottom chord is nice and warm. The top chords however, are above the insulation and get very cold in a well ventilated attic.
While the bottom chord is warm and is drying out, the top chords are doing just the opposite. The cold winter air has very high relative humidity. The top chords absorb moisture from the air causing them to elongate.
With the top chords growing and the bottom chord shrinking, the truss arches up in the middle causing the ceilings to lift off the walls. In the summer, the cycle reverses itself.

What Is The Problem?
No problem really - from a structural point of view. But cosmetically it's another story. No one has yet solved the problem, but some builders mask it by securing the ceiling drywall to the top of the walls and not to the trusses for a distance of 18 inches away from the walls. The drywall flexes and stays fastened to the walls while the trusses lift above it.
Others use a decorative molding where the walls meet the ceilings. They fasten the moldings to the ceilings but not to the walls. As the ceilings move up, the moldings go with them hiding the gap.
One little tip to remember. If you're redecorating, always do it in the winter when the ceiling is at its highest point. Otherwise you'll have a stripe around the room below the molding next winter!

GFCI's Ground Fault Circuit Interruptors

The outlets with the coloured "Test" and "Reset" buttons are specially designed to better protect people than ordinary outlets. GFCI's have been used in houses since the 1970's.

Why Are They Used?
GFCI's are designed to shut power off if there is a very small leak of electricity (a ground fault) which ordinary outlets wouldn't notice. Normal outlets are shut off by a fuse or breaker if more than 15 amps flows. This prevents fires, but since people can be killed by 1 amp or less, fuses may not protect people from shock. GFCI's shut off power if a leak as small as .005 amp occurs.

How Do They Work?
A GFCI detects a leak by comparing how much electricity comes back through the white wire to how much was sent in the black wire. When everything is working correctly, the current flow is the same. If a little electricity is leaking out, it may be going through a ground wire or through part of the house. If this happens, the black wire will have more electricity than the white wire. Electricity, like most people, will follow the path of least resistance. If a person touches a leaky electrical system, they may present a better route to ground for electricity, since they may offer very little resistance.
Another way of saying this, is that the person may be a very good conductor or the person may not be well insulated. The electricity will flow through the person, giving them a shock. Without a GFCI, this can be fatal. With a GFCI, the little leak would be detected and the power would be shut off.

Where Are They Used?
In Canada, GFCI's are now required by Code for outdoor outlets, bathroom outlets and whirlpool outlets. Electrical systems for swimming pools are also GFCI protected. In the newer homes, kitchen outlets within six feet of the sink must also be GFCI protected. 4 feet in new build homes.

Can The Outlet Be GFCI Protected If There Is No Button?
Yes, if for example, the circuit breaker back at the panel has a "Test" button, it may be a GFCI breaker. This will protect everything on that particular circuit. Any outlets wired downstream of a GFCI outlet are also protected if the GFCI is wired correctly.

Can They Be Added To Older Houses?

Yes, GFCI's can be added to any electrical system. They are more expensive than regular outlets ($15-$20 vs. $1-$2), but are inexpensive insurance. While they do not replace grounding systems exactly, some Codes do allow GFCI's in lieu of grounding in some cases. It is safe to say that a circuit protected by a GFCI is better protected than one without.

Note: Just because they are there and "apparantly" trip that doesnt mean that they are functional, always test with an approved tester to ensure the power is isolated when you believe it is

Solar Panels

This also is becoming a very popular item being added to homes where home owners are environmentally aware or just looking to reduce costs. There are some concerns however:

First is the roof structure adequate to support the added weight? Ensure the installation is done by competent contractors as moisture is the enemy of the home and once you even walk on a roof damage can be done, let alone when mounting a myriad of supports and structure up there.
Is the roof in a serviceable condition prior to installing the panels? Although given 10 - 15 days the installer likely will be willing to remove the panels and then reinstall them after the re shingling is complete at no charge ( check contract for specific details) I'm sure they wouldn't like to be doing this after 6 months or less
Is the roof optimum for solar panel installation. Facing true South and a large flat uninterrupted roof is best with limited shading from local trees.
Ensure you contact your insurance company as some are definitely anti Solar Panels due to concerns from some Fire Departments especially volunteer groups that are apprehensive about accumulated electrical charges especially if the panels are charging a battery pack system
All fasteners should be stainless steel and wiring copper not aluminum, both to limit corrosion and the associated issues
Note there have been some reports of health issues when people are sensitive to Electromagnetic Fields also.

Some lending companies are uneducated in this process so your lender, or the new home owners lender may have a hard time evaluating the risk/ reward relationship. Ensure that transfer can be carried out seamlessly as usual periods of 20 years lease are common

Key Words

There have been times when we ALL could not remember that term or we have ALL been the one in the room with least experience and didn't want to ask what it was that the other person was referring to. The following list may be valuable in that circumstance. Greater detail and drawings can be found in a CMHC publication Canadian Wood Frame House Constuction. If I can assist in any way please do not hesitate to ask. Building Technical Terms Explained

Abs— A type of black plastic pipe commonly used for waste water lines.

Aggregate— Crushed rock or stone.

Air chamber— A vertical, air filled pipe that prevents water hammer by absorbing pressure when water is shut off at a faucet or valve

Air-conditioner condenser— The outside fan unit of the air conditioning system. The condenser discharges heat to the building exterior.

Alligatoring— Coarse checking pattern on the surface of a material. Typically caused by ageing, exposure to sun and/or loss of volatiles.

Ampacity— Refers to the how much current a wire can safely carry. For example, a 12-gauge electrical copper wire can safely carry up to 20 amps.

Asphalt— A bituminous material employed in roofing and road paving materials because of its waterproofing ability.

Backfill— The replacement of excavated earth into a trench or pit.

Backflow— A reverse flow of water or other liquids into the water supply pipes, caused by negative pressure in the pipes

Ballast— A transformer that steps up the voltage in a florescent lamp.

Balusters— Vertical members in a railing used between a top rail and bottom rail or the stair treads. Sometimes referred to as pickets or spindles.

Base sheet— Bottom layer of built-up roofing.

Batt— A section of fiberglass or rock-wool insulation.

Bay window— Any window space projecting outward from the walls of a building, either square or polygonal in plan.

Beam— A structural member transversely supporting a load. A structural member carrying building loads (weight) from one support to another. Sometimes called a girder.

Bearing wall— A wall that supports any vertical load in addition to its own weight.

Bird’s-mouth cut — A cutout in a rafter where it crosses the top plate of the wall providing a bearing surface for nailing. Also called a heel cut.

Bitumen— Term commonly applied to various mixtures of naturally occurring solid or liquid hydrocarbons, excluding coal. These substances are described as bituminous. Asphalt is a bitumen. See Asphalt.

Blocking— Small wood pieces to brace framing members or to provide a nailing base for gypsum board or paneling.

Board and batten — A method of siding in which the joints between vertically placed boards or plywood are covered by narrow strips of wood.

Bottom chord— The lower or bottom horizontal member of a truss.

Brick tie— Metal strips or wires that are inserted into the mortar joints of the brick veneer. Ties hold the veneer wall to the backer wall behind it

Brick veneer— A vertical facing of brick used to clad a building. Brick veneer is not a load-bearing component

Building paper— A general term for papers, felts and similar sheet materials used in buildings without reference to their properties or uses. Generally comes in long rolls

Built-up roof— A roofing composed of three to five layers of asphalt felt laminated with coal tar, pitch or asphalt. The top is finished with crushed slag or gravel. Generally used on flat or low-pitched roofs

Butt joint— The junction where the ends of building materials meet. To place materials end-to-end or end-to-edge without overlapping

Cant strip — A triangular shaped piece of lumber used at the junction of a flat deck and a wall to prevent cracking of the roofing which is applied over it

Cantilever— Any part of a structure that projects beyond its main support and is balanced on it

Cap flashing— The flashing covering over a horizontal surface to prevent water from migrating behind the base flashing

Cap sheet — The top layer in modified bitumen roofing

Casement window — A window with hinges on one of the vertical sides and swings open like a door

Ceiling joist— One of a series of parallel framing members used to support ceiling loads and supported in turn by larger beams, girders or bearing walls. Can also be roof joists

Cement— The grey powder that is the “glue” in concrete. Portland cement. Also, any adhesive. Certificate of Occupancy— Certificate is issued by the local municipality and is required before anyone can occupy and live within the building. It is issued only after the local municipality has made all inspections and all monies and fees have been paid

Cfm (cubic feet per minute)— A rating that expresses the amount of air a blower or fan can move. The volume of air (measured in cubic feet) that can pass through an opening in one minute. Chase — A framed enclosed space around a flue pipe or a channel in a wall, or through a ceiling for something to lie in or pass through

Checking— Cracks that appear with age in many large timber members. The cracks run parallel to the grain of the wood. At first superficial, but in time may penetrate entirely through the member and compromise its integrity

Cleanout— An opening providing access to a drain line. Closed with a threaded plug

Closed-cut valley— A method of valley treatment in which shingles from one side of the valley extend across the valley, while shingles from the other side are trimmed 2 inches from the valley centerline. The valley flashing is not exposed. AKA - Woven valley

Collar tie— Nominal one- or two-inch-thick members connecting opposite roof rafters. They serve to stiffen the roof structure

Column— A vertical structural compression member that supports loads acting in the direction of its longitudinal axis

Combustion air and ventilation air— The ductwork installed to bring fresh, outside air to the furnace or boiler room. Normally two separate supplies of air are brought in: one high for ventilation and one low for combustion

Compressor — A mechanical device that pressurizes a gas in order to turn it into a liquid, thereby allowing heat to be removed or added. A compressor is the main component of conventional heat pumps and air conditioners. In an air conditioning system, the compressor normally sits outside and has a large fan (to remove heat)

Concrete board or cement board — A panel made out of concrete and fiberglass, usually used as a tile backing material

Condensate drain line— The pipe that runs from the air conditioning cooling coil to the exterior or internal building drain, to drain away condensation

Condensation — The change of water from vapor to liquid when warm, moisture-laden air comes in contact with a cold surface

Condensing unit— The outdoor component of a cooling system. It includes a compressor and condensing coil designed to give off heat

Conduit, electrical— A pipe, usually metal, in which wire is installed. The pipe serves to protect the wire

Control joint — Tooled, straight grooves made on concrete floors or structures to “control” where the concrete should crack (as a result of shrinkage)

Cooling load — The amount of cooling required to keep a building at a specified temperature during the summer, usually 25° C, based on a design outside temperature

Corbel— To build out one or more courses of brick or stone from the face of a wall. This may be decorative, or serve to support a structural component

Counterflashing— A metal flashing usually used to cover another flashing and prevent moisture entry

Course— A row of shingles or roll roofing running the length of the roof. Parallel layers of building materials such as bricks, or siding laid up horizontally

Cpvc— See pvc.Crawlspace— A shallow space below a building, normally enclosed by the foundation walls

Cricket— A saddle-shaped, peaked construction connecting a sloping roof plane with a wall or chimney. Designed to encourage water drainage away from the chimney or wall joint

Culvert— Round, corrugated drain pipe (normally 15 or 18 inches in diameter) installed beneath a driveway and parallel to and near the street

Cupping— A type of warping that causes boards or shingles to curl up at their edges. Typically caused by uneven drying or loss of volatiles

Curb— The short elevation of a supporting element above the deck of a roof. Normally a box (on the roof) on which a skylight or piece of mechanical equipment is attached

Curtain wall— An exterior building wall that is supported entirely by the building structure, rather than being self-supporting or load-bearing

Damper— A metal “door” placed within the ductwork, typically. Used to control flow of air, etc., in the ductwork

Damp-proofing— The black, tar-like material applied to the exterior of a foundation wall. Used to minimize moisture penetration into the wall

Deck— The surface, installed over the supporting framing members, to which the roofing is applied

Dedicated circuit— An electrical circuit that serves only one appliance or a series of electric heaters or smoke detectors

Dew point — Temperature at which a vapor begins to deposit as a liquid. Applies especially to water in the atmosphere

Disconnect— A large electrical on-off switch

Diverter valve— A device that changes the direction of water flow from one faucet to another

Dormer— A box-like projection from the sloping plane of a roof that frames a window

Double-hung window— A window with two vertically sliding sashes, both of which can move up and down

Downspout— A pipe for draining water from roof gutters. Also called a leader

Drain tile— A perforated, corrugated plastic pipe laid at the bottom of the foundation wall and used to drain excess water away from the foundation. It prevents ground water from seeping through the foundation wall. Sometimes called perimeter drain

Drip—A groove in the underside of a sill or drip cap to cause water to drop off on the outer edge instead of drawing back and running down the face of the building

Ducts— Usually round or rectangular metal pipes installed for distributing warm or cold air from the heating and air-conditioning equipment

Eaves protection— Additional layer of roofing material applied at the eaves to help prevent damage from water backup (typically caused by ice damming)

Eifs—Exterior Insulation Finish System. An exterior cladding system that employs a relatively thin acrylic stucco coating over insulation panels. (Pronounced “ee-fus”)

Elbow— A plumbing or electrical fitting that lets you change directions in runs of pipe or conduit. Evaporator coil— The part of a cooling system that absorbs heat from air passing through it. The evaporator coil is found within the ductwork

Expansion joint— A joint that allows for building material expansion and contraction caused by temperature changes

Exposed aggregate finish— A method of finishing concrete which washes the cement/sand mixture off the top layer of the aggregate — usually gravel. Often used with precast concrete exterior wall finishes

Exposure— The portion of the roofing or wall cladding material exposed to the weather after installation

Fascia— a vertical member attached to the ends of the roof structure and often the backing of the gutter

Felt— Fibrous material saturated with asphalt and used as an underlayment or part of a built-up roofing system

Finger joint— A manufacturing process of interlocking two shorter pieces of wood end to end to create a longer piece of dimensional lumber or molding. Often used in jambs and casings and are normally painted (instead of stained)

Fire stop— A solid, tight closure of a concealed space, placed to prevent the spread of fire and smoke through such a space. Includes stuffing wire and pipe holes in the fire separations

Flashing— (1) Sheet metal or flexible membrane pieces fitted to the joint of any roof intersection, penetration or projection (chimneys, copings, dormers, valleys, vent pipes, etc.) to prevent water leakage. (2) The building component used to connect portions of a roof, deck, or siding material to another surface such as a chimney, wall, or vent pipe. Often made out of various metals, rubber or tar and is mostly intended to prevent water entry

Flatwork— Common word for concrete floors, driveways, patios and sidewalks

Flue— The space or passage in a chimney through which smoke, gas, or fumes ascend

Fluorescent lighting— A fluorescent lamp is a gas-filled glass tube with a phosphor coating on the inside. Gas inside the tube is ionized by electricity which causes the phosphor coating to glow. Normally with two pins that extend from each end

Footing — A widened, below-ground base of a foundation wall or a poured concrete, below-ground, base used to support foundations or piers

Forced air heating— a common form of heating with natural gas, propane, oil or electricity as a fuel. Air is heated through a heat exchanger and distributed through a set of metal ducts

Form— Temporary structure erected to contain concrete during placing and initial hardening. Foundation— The supporting portion of a structure below the first floor construction, or below grade, including the footings

Framing— The structural wood, steel or concrete elements of the building

Framing, balloon— A system of framing a building in which all vertical structural elements of the bearing walls consist of single pieces extending from the top of the foundation sill plate to the roof plate and to which all floor joists are fastened

Frost line— The depth of frost penetration in soil and/or the depth at which the earth will freeze and swell. This depth varies in different parts of the country

Furring— Strips of wood or metal applied to a wall or other surface to even it and normally to serve as a fastening base for finish material

Gable— A sidewall, typically triangular, that is formed by two sloping roof planes

Gable roof— A type of roof with sloping planes of the same pitch on each side of the ridge. Has a gable at each end

Gasket— A device used to seal joints against leaks

Gfi or gfci or Ground Fault Current Interrupter — A electrical device used to prevent injury in locations where one might be in contact with a grounded surface and an electrical appliance. Most gfis are located in a receptacle or circuit breaker and can be identified by the presence of a “test” and a “reset” button

Glued laminated beam (glulam)— A structural beam composed of wood laminations. The laminations are pressure-bonded with adhesives

Granules— Crushed rock coated with ceramic material, applied to the exposed surface of asphalt roofing products to add color and reduce ultraviolet degradation. Copper compounds added to these help make them algae resistant

Groundwater— Water from a subsurface water source

Grout— Mortar made of such consistency (by adding water) that it will flow into the joints and cavities of the masonry work and fill them solid

Gusset— A flat metal, wood, plywood or similar type member used to provide a connection at the intersection of wood members. Most commonly used at joints of wood trusses. They are fastened by nails, screws, bolts, or adhesives

Gutter— The trough that channels water from the eaves to the downspouts AKA Eves trough

H-beam — A steel beam with a cross section resembling the letter H

H-clip— Small metal clips formed like an H that fits at the joints of two plywood (or wafer board) sheets to stiffen the joint. Normally used on the roof sheeting

Header— A beam placed perpendicular to joists and to which joists are attached in framing for around an opening

Hearth— The fireproof area directly in front of a fireplace. The inner or outer floor of a fireplace, usually made of brick, tile, or stone

Heat pump— A device that uses compression and decompression of gas to heat and/or cool a building

Heating load— The amount of heating required to keep a building at a specified temperature during the winter, based on an outside design temperature

Hip— The external angle formed by the meeting of two sloping sides of a roof

Honeycombs— The appearance concrete makes when aggregate in the concrete is visible and where there are void areas in the concrete

Hose bib — An exterior water faucet

Hot wire— The wire that carries electrical energy to a receptacle or other device-in contrast to a neutral, which carries electricity away again. Normally the black wire

Hvac— An abbreviation for Heat, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning

I-beam— A steel beam with a cross section resembling the letter I

Ice damming— The buildup of ice and water at the eaves of a sloped roof. Melting snow on the roof refreezes at the roof overhang, causing the damming. Buildings with inadequate attic insulation or ventilation or with large roof projections beyond the exterior walls are more pronto to ice damming

Irrigation— Lawn sprinkler system

Jack post— A type of structural support made of metal, which can be raised or lowered through a series of pins and a screw to meet the height required. Typically used as a replacement for an old supporting member in a building

Joist— One of a series of parallel beams, usually two inches in thickness, used to support floor and ceiling loads, and supported in turn by larger beams, girders, or bearing walls

Joist hanger — A metal U-shaped item used to support the end of a floor joist and attached with hardened nails to another bearing joist or beam

Knob-and-tube wiring— A common form of electrical wiring used before the Second World War. When in good condition it may still be functional for low amperage use such as smaller light fixtures

Lath— A building material of narrow wood, metal, gypsum, or insulating board that is fastened to the frame of a building to act as a base for plaster, shingles, or tiles

Lattice— An open framework of crisscrossed wood or metal strips that form regular, patterned spaces

Leader— See Downspout

Ledger— The wood or metal members attached to a beam, studding, or wall used to support joist or rafter ends

Lintel — A horizontal structural member that supports the load over an opening such as a door or window

Load-bearing wall— A wall supporting its own weight and some other structural elements of the building such as the roof and floor structures

Louvre — A vented opening into a room that has a series of horizontal slats and arranged to permit ventilation but to exclude rain, snow, light, insects, or other living creatures

Mansard roof — A roof with two sloping planes of different pitch on each of its four sides. The lower plane is steeper than the upper, and may be almost vertical

Masonry— Stone, brick, concrete, hollow-tile, concrete block, or other similar building units or materials. Normally bonded together with mortar to form a wall

Modified bitumen roof — A roof covering that is typically composed of a factory-fabricated composite sheet consisting of a copolymer-modified bitumen, often reinforced with polyester and/or fiberglass, and installed in one or more plies. The membrane is commonly surfaced with field-applied coatings, factory-applied granules or metal foil. The roofing system may incorporate rigid insulation

Mortise— A slot cut into a board, plank, or timber, usually edgewise, to receive the tenon (or tongue) of another board, plank, or timber to form a joint

Mullion— A vertical divider in the frame between windows, doors, or other openings. Neutral wire— Usually color-coded white, this wire carries electricity from a load back to the service panel

Newel post— The large starting post to which the end of a stair guard railing or balustrade is fastened

Nosing — The projecting edge of a molding or drip or the front edge of a stair tread. On center — The measurement of spacing for studs, rafters, and joists in a building from the center of one member to the center of the next

Open valley— Method of valley construction in which shingles on both sides of the valley are trimmed along a chalk line snapped on each side of the valley. Shingles do not extend across the valley. Valley flashing is exposed

Open web steel joist — One of a series of parallel beams, used to support floor and roof loads, and supported in turn by larger beams, girders or bearing walls. Consists of horizontal top and bottom chords, with diagonal and/or vertical web members connecting the chords together

Oriented Strand Board or osb— A manufactured 4-foot-by-8-foot wood panel made out of one- to two-inch wood chips and glue. Often used as a substitute for plywood

P-trap— Curved, U-section of drain pipe that holds a water seal to prevent sewer gasses from entering a building through a fixtures’ drain pipe

Parapet— The portion of an exterior wall that extends above the edge of a roof

Parging— A thin layer of cement placed over masonry units

Partition— A wall that subdivides spaces within any story of a building or room

Paver— Materials (commonly masonry) laid down to make a firm, even surface on the exterior. Performance bond— An amount of money (usually 10 percent of the total price of a job) that a contractor must put on deposit with a governmental agency as an insurance policy that guarantees the contractors’ proper and timely completion of a project or job

Perimeter drain— Typically 4-inch perforated plastic pipe around the perimeter (either inside or outside) of a foundation wall (before backfill) that collects and diverts ground water away from the foundation

Pilot light — A small, continuous flame (in a boiler, or furnace) that ignites gas or oil burners when needed

Pitch— (1) The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in feet, to the span, in feet. (2) A thick, oily substance commonly obtained from tar, used to seal out water at joints and seams. Pitch is produced from distilling coal tar, wood tar, or petroleum. Pitch pocket— A container, usually formed of sheet metal, around supporting connections with roof-mounted equipment. Filling the container with pitch, or better yet, plastic roof cement, helps seal out water even when vibration is present. A pitch pocket is not the preferred method of flashing a roof penetration

Plan view — Drawing of a structure with the view from overhead, looking down

Plate— Normally a horizontal member within a framed structure, such as: (1) sill plate — a horizontal member anchored to a concrete or masonry wall; (2) Sole plate — bottom horizontal member of a frame wall; or (3) top plate — top horizontal member of a frame wall supporting ceiling joists, rafters, or other members

Plenum— The main supply air or return air duct leading from a heating or cooling unit

Plumbing stack— A plumbing vent pipe that penetrates the roof

Ply— A term to denote the number of layers of roofing felt, veneer in plywood, or layers in built-up materials, in any finished piece of such material

Point load— A point where a bearing/structural weight is concentrated and transferred to another structural member or component

Portland cement — Cement made by heating clay and crushed limestone into a brick and then grinding to a pulverized powder state

Post — a vertical framing member usually designed to carry a beam

Post-and-beam— A basic building method that uses just a few hefty posts and beams to support an entire structure. Contrasts with stud framing

Power vent— A vent that includes a fan to speed up air flow

Pressure relief valve — A safety device mounted on a water heater or boiler. The relief valve is designed to release any high pressure in the vessel and thus prevent tank explosions

Pressure-treated wood — Lumber that has been saturated with a preservative to resist rot

Pvc or cpvc — (Polyvinyl choride) A type of white or light gray plastic pipe sometimes used for water supply lines and waste pipe

Quarry tile— A man-made or machine-made clay tile used to finish a floor or wall. Generally 6 inches by 6 inches by ¼-inch thick

R value — A measure of insulation’s resistance to heat flow. The higher the R value the more effective the insulation

Rafter— (1) The framing member that directly supports the roof sheathing. A rafter usually follows the angle of the roof, and may be a part of a roof truss. (2) The supporting framing member immediately beneath the deck, sloping from the ridge to the wall plate

Rafter, hip— A rafter that forms the intersection of an external roof angle

Rafter, valley— A rafter that forms the intersection of an internal roof angle

Rake edge— The overhang of an inclined roof plane beyond the vertical wall below it

Rebar— Reinforcing bar. Ribbed steel bars installed in concrete structures designed to strengthen concrete. Comes in various thicknesses and strength grades. May be epoxy coated to enhance rust resistance

Refrigerant — A substance that remains a gas at low temperatures and pressure and can be used to transfer heat. Freon is an example

Register— A grille placed over a supply air or return air duct

Reglaze— To replace a broken window

Reinforcing— Steel rods or metal fabric placed in concrete slabs, beams, or columns to increase their strength

Relief valve— A device designed to open if it detects excess temperature or pressure. Commonly found on water heating or steam producing systems

Resilient flooring— A durable floor cover that has the ability to resume its original shape

Retaining wall— A structure that holds back a slope or elevation of land and prevents erosion. Ridge— The horizontal line at the junction of the top edges of two sloping roof surfaces

Riser— A vertical member between two stair treads

Roll roofing — Asphalt roofing products manufactured in roll form

Romex— A name brand of nonmetallic sheathed electrical cable that is used for indoor wiring

Roof deck— The surface, installed over the supporting framing members, to which the roofing is applied

Roof sheathing— The wood panels or sheet material fastened to the roof rafters or trusses on which the shingle or other roof covering is laid

Roof valley— The “V” created where two sloping roofs meet

Roofing membrane— The layer or layers of waterproofing products that cover the roof deck

Run, stair— The horizontal distance of a stair tread from the nosing to the riser

Saddle— Two sloping surfaces meeting in a horizontal ridge, used between the back side of a chimney, or other vertical surface, and a sloping roof. Used to divert water around the chimney or vertical surface

Sanitary sewer — A sewer system designed for the collection of waste water from the bathroom, kitchen and laundry drains, and is usually not designed to handle storm water

Sash— The frame that holds the glass in a window, often the movable part of the window. Saturated felt — A felt that is impregnated with tar or asphalt

Scratch coat— The first coat of plaster, which is scratched to form a bond for a second coat. Scupper — (1) An opening for drainage in a wall, curb or parapet. (2) The drain above a downspout or in a flat roof, usually connected to the downspout

Sealer — A finishing material, either clear or pigmented, that is usually applied directly over raw wood or concrete for the purpose of sealing the wood or concrete surface

Seasoning— Drying and removing moisture from green wood in order to improve its usability. Service equipment— Main control gear at the electrical service entrance, such as circuit breakers, switches, and fuses

Service lateral — Underground power supply line

Shake— A wood roofing material, normally cedar or redwood. Produced by splitting a block of the wood along the grain line. Modern shakes are sometimes machine sawn on one side. Sheathing — (1) Sheets or panels used as roof deck material. (2) Panels that lie between the studs and the siding of a structure

Short circuit— A situation that occurs when hot and neutral wires come in contact with each other

Fuses and circuit breakers protect against fire that could result from a short

Sill — (1) The two-by-four or two-by-six wood plate framing member that lays flat against and bolted to the foundation wall (with anchor bolts) and upon which the floor joists are installed. (2) The member forming the lower side of an opening, as a door sill or window sill

Skylight — A more or less horizontal window located on the roof of a building

Slab-on-grade — A type of foundation with a concrete floor which is placed directly on the soil. In warm climates, the edge of the slab is usually thicker and acts as the footing for the walls. In cold climates, the slab is independent of the perimeter foundation walls

Sleeper — Usually, a wood member that serves to support equipment

Soffit — (1)The finished underside of the eaves. (2) A small ceiling-like space, often out of doors, such as the underside of a roof overhang

Solid waste pump — A pump used to ‘lift’ waste water to a gravity sanitary sewer line. Usually used in basements and other locations which are situated below the level of the city sewer. Spalling— The cracking and breaking away of the surface of a material

Span— The clear distance that a framing member carries a load without support (between structural supports)

Splash block — A pad placed under the lower end of a downspout to divert the water from the downspout away from the building. Usually made out of concrete or fiberglass

Stair stringer — Supporting member for stair treads. Can be a notched plank or a steel member

Starter strip— Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves that provides protection by filling in the spaces under the cutouts and joints of the first course of shingles

Step flashing — Flashing application method used where a vertical surface meets a sloping roof plane

Storey — That part of a building between any floor or between the floor and roof

Storm collar — A metal flashing used to seal around a penetration in a roof

Storm sewer — A sewer system designed to collect storm water, separate from the waste water system

Storm window— An extra window usually placed outside of an existing one, as additional protection against cold weather, or damage

Stucco — An outside plaster finish made with Portland cement as its base

Stud— One of a series of slender wood or metal vertical structural members placed as supporting elements in walls and partitions

Stud framing — A building method that distributes structural loads to each of a series of relatively lightweight studs. Contrasts with post-and-beam

Sump — Pit or large plastic bucket/barrel inside a basement, designed to collect ground water (storm water) from a perimeter drain system

Sump pump — A submersible pump in a sump pit that pumps any excess ground water to the storm sewer

Suspended ceiling— A ceiling system supported by hanging it from the overhead structural framing

Tempered— Strengthened

Tempered glass will not shatter nor create shards, but will “pelletize” like an automobile window. Required in tub and shower enclosures, for example

Termites— Insects that superficially resemble ants in size, general appearance, and habit of living in colonies; hence, they are frequently called “white ants.” Subterranean termites establish themselves in buildings not by being carried in with lumber, but by entering from ground nests after the building has been constructed. If unmolested, they eat out the woodwork, leaving a shell of sound wood to conceal their activities, and damage may proceed so far as to cause collapse of parts of a structure before discovery

Terra cotta— A ceramic material molded into masonry units

Threshold — The bottom metal, concrete, or wood plate of an exterior door frame. They may be adjustable to keep a tight fit with the door slab

Toenailing— To drive a nail in at a slant. Method used to secure floor joists to the plate. Not acceptable for securing joists flush to a header or beam

Tongue-and-groove— A joint made by a tongue (a rib on one edge of a board) that fits into a corresponding groove in the edge of another board to make a tight flush joint. Typically, the subfloor plywood is tongue-and-groove

Top chord— The upper or top member of a truss

Trap — A plumbing fitting that holds water to prevent air, gas, and vermin from entering into a building

Tread— The walking surface board in a stairway on which the foot is placed

Treated lumber — A wood product which has been impregnated with chemicals to reduce damage from wood rot or insects. Often used for the portions of a structure which is likely to be in ongoing contact with soil and water. Wood may also be treated with a fire retardant

Truss— An engineered and manufactured roof support member with “zig-zag” framing members. Does the same job as a rafter but is designed to have a longer span than a rafter

Tube-and-knob wiring — See knob-and-tube wiring

Uffi — Urea Formaldehyde Foam Insulation, a foam insulation blown into existing walls. (Pronounced “you-fee”)

Ultraviolet degradation— A reduction in certain performance limits caused by exposure to ultraviolet light

Underlayment — (1) A one-quarter-inch material placed over the subfloor plywood sheathing and under finish coverings, such as vinyl flooring, to provide a smooth, even surface. (2) A secondary roofing layer that is waterproof or water-resistant, installed on the roof deck and beneath shingles or other roof-finishing layer

Uv rays— Ultraviolet rays from the sun

Valley— The inward angle formed by two intersecting, sloping roof planes. Since it naturally becomes a water channel, additional attention to waterproofing it is desirable

Vapor barrier — A building product installed on exterior walls and ceilings under the drywall and on the warm side of the insulation. It is used to retard the movement of water vapor into walls and prevent condensation within them. Normally, polyethylene plastic sheeting is used

Vent — A pipe or duct allowing the flow of air and gases to the outside. In a plumbing system, the vent is necessary to allow sewer gases to escape to the exterior

Vermiculite— A mineral closely related to mica, with the faculty of expanding on heating to form lightweight material with insulation quality. Used as bulk insulation and also as aggregate in insulating and acoustical plaster and in insulating concrete floors. Some had an asbestos content

Water closet— A toilet

Weather stripping — Narrow sections of thin metal or other material installed to prevent the infiltration of air and moisture around windows and doors

Weep holes — Small holes in exterior wall cladding systems that allow moisture to escape and air pressure equalization in the cavity space drained by the weep hole

Wythe— (rhymes with “tithe” or “scythe”) A vertical layer of masonry that is one masonry unit thick

Zone— The section of a building that is served by one heating or cooling loop because it has noticeably distinct heating or cooling needs. Also, the section of property that will be watered from a lawn sprinkler system

Zone valve — A device, usually placed near the heater or cooler, which controls the flow of water or steam to parts of the building; it is controlled by a zone thermostat