Heating Systems - Hot Water Boilers

TSSA Mandated Inspection; Water Boilers that are fueled by Propane and Natural Gas, are naturally draughted and are less than 300,000 Btu in size (this would be most that would be installed in residential homes) have a mandatory inspection required for Carbon Monoxide emissions and unless they have less than 100 ppm then they must be shut down until they can be serviced/repaired.
This inappropriate operation can be caused by lack of maintenance or by inferior installation.This inspection must be carried out annually and a record of the sucessful inspection should be posted adjacent to the boiler.

Septic System Full Inspections

Evaluate the plumbing components inside the home: I inspect all of the interior plumbing fixtures for proper connections. I also make sure all the waste lines are properly discharging into an approved waste system. Dye is intruduced into the waste water system and over the following weeks may be tracked through its disposal stream. Water treatment systems (softeners) can be harmful to septic systems and I evaluate where the discharge of these systems go.

Examine the inside of the treatment tank: I open the tank and examine the inlet and outlet baffles and determine the volume of the treatment tank. I inspect the visible parts of the tank for cracks, water or root infiltration, corrosion, and leakage. I also take a sample from inside the tank with a sludge sampler. Similar to what is used in waste water treatment facilities. By examining the sample I can determine the amount of sludge, liquid level and scum layer. This allows me to understand whether the tank is healthy and if it needs pumping.

Distribution Box: I inspect the distribution box for corrosion, leakage and cracks. I also make sure the D-Box is level to ensure equal flow to each pipe in the leaching field. EDA, ( Effluent Disposal Area ) or Leaching Field. I will determine the location and size of the EDA. Test hole's are hand dug in different locations throughout the EDA. This allows me to examine the condition of the EDA as well as how much saturation is present. A full evaluation of the EDA is critical in determining the overall condition of the septic system.

Vacant homes: Septic inspections can still be performed on vacant homes. Sometimes a hydraulic load test will be done by running approximately 150-200 gallons of water into the system. Septic dye may also be used to determine flow.

Reports: My At Home & Play septic system narative report is comprehensive and easy to read. I include digital photographs for a better understanding of the system, components and condition.

Hole in the Ground: Basement or Swimming Pool?

The moral of the story is do you want moisture to enter into your basement through the cracks and create a swimming pool... of course not.

Every basement will have cracks.... eventually. Some small and inconsequential, some severe and more alarming each day.

The issue is whether water will be allowed to enter. As a home owner its your responsibility to reduce the possibilities by keeping water from sitting against the foundation walls; first by extending the downspout discharge 6ft away from the walls; then ensuring that the grading/landscaping keeps it moving and out to the storm drains. Finally don't create oversized flower beds against the walls that hold moisture and need watering regularly.

Tarion warranty will not repair cracks less than 8 mm wide especially if they are not allowing water to flow through so then you are on your own unless you have a responsible builder.

The most economic option for crack repair is resin injection from the inside of the foundation wall at approx $700 per crack. If the basement is finished and you notice the crack before major issues are created then the best option is to excavate the outside and seal with a membrane at approx $1500 per running meter.

Make sure that if you have a sump pump installed that it works properly and the plumbing directs the outflow away from the foundation or the water may just cycle around and around the weeping tile and then come back to the sump pump again.

For sure not everyone apprieciates the option of an indoor swimming pool, especially when it wasn't listed on the options for the home in the MLS listing

Replacing Roofing?

Although many authorities advise that multiple layers of asphalt shingles can be acceptable there are definate reductions in longevity resulting, up to 50% of life can be lost by each subsequent thickness of shingles applied over another. This also reduces the possibilties of inspection / replacement of flashings and sheathing when not removing the worn out shingles.

Did you know also that when sheathing has to be replaced a building permit is required as this is a significant part of the buildings structure.

Warranties for shingle materials are for the large part worthless and not claimable and if claimable may only support replacement materials so therefore the specifically "failed" components only would be offered as replacement. However 50% of failed shingles can be attributed to inferior installation workmanship and design issues can be picked out as concerns on many others. Weaved covering of valleys can give reductions of life of approx 5 years so metal valleys will ensure maximised life and effective return for investment

Do NOT cut corners to save money if you are planning to live with this roof for the long haul this can be a significant investment and protect the homes structure for many many years to come. remember Moisture/water is the ENEMY.

Keep it out

Chimneys

This part of your structure along with the roof is very often neglected as they are out of your normal field of vision. Chimneys should be cleaned regularly, plan your cleaning for the end of the season to prevent those contaminants and chemicals sitting in your chimney through teh summer absorbing the mositure from teh humid air through teh summer rather than before you plan to use the chimney in the fall, particularly if the fuel used is wood as the black deposits, soot and creosote, are a fire hazard if they build up in excess of 1/8" coating. This can also void your insurance if you have no documented proof of cleaning and a chimney fire develops. Ensure you have a rain cap on your chimney as moisture inside can create deterioration of the mortar and bricks themselves on masonry chimneys or rusting will result in steel chimneys. Pointing can repair minor deterioration but if mortar erodes more than 1/2" deep then replacing the bricks may be the expensive solution. Major failure, collapse, of the chimney may finally be the result if ignored long enough. WETT inspection is a neccessary process for wood burning fireplaces along with prior sweeping AH & P can assist in this manner also.

Winterise AC Unit

When preparing for the winter months, first of all turn off the breaker/ remove the fuse associated to the Air Conditioner in the home (assuming it is a dedicated circuit) If not then inspect the outside unit and if there is a breaker installed adjacent to it then turn that off. Secondly then place a cover over the top of the outside unit to prevent snow and ice entering the cavity of the box ( I personally use a garbage bin lid held down with elastic straps but a wooden board held down with a large stone works). DO NOT wrap in a plastic bag or tarp as this will retain moisture inside the assembly and promote corrosion.
In the early summer when you are considering using the unit again turn the breaker back on and remove the cover approx 24 hours before you plan to use it, clean or change the main system filter for optimum efficiency.

Moisture

My latest piece of information relates to Moisture/Humidity in the home. First of all Homes built prior to the mid 1980's likely have a humidifier installed these should be on the return plenum of your furnace and the control should be installed in the living area NOT in the basement mechanical room, unless you spend a majority of your time in that area . Newer homes are more adequately sealed retaining their moisture so likely do not need that added moisture, rather more emphasis should be upon purging that moisture from the home to prevent Microbial Growth (Mould/Mildew)..........NOTE my reports never use the word "Mould" only a lab is capable of identifying mould to 100% certainty. Exhaust fans should be used to excess; bathroom and kitchen, if you have a Heatilator ( HRV) use this system regularly. Otherwise regularly opening windows/doors will do the deal also although this is not the common practice in modern life year round. A way of removing the moisture in your bathroom quickly after a shower is to turn on the cold faucet for a few minutes after you have stepped out of the shower, this will counteract the airborne heat as quickly if not quicker than opening the window especially if its already humid outside. Many people are not aware, but listed below is the amount of moisture released into the air on a regular basis in your home: First Year of Occupation in New Construction: approx 2500 litres as the interior dries. Daily living 4 person family: 10 litres per day 1 Cord of Wood Fuel for Wood Stove: 5 liters per day Exposed soil in Basement: 50 litres per day Airconditioner/Hi Efficiency Furnace up to 1/2 liter of condensate per hour